More Varnishing, Electrics Installation, and Galley Module

 This is after the final coat of varnish on the shell.  Looks pretty good, but I did find a few "holidays" still--probably showing through from previous coats.  I found I could greatly improve the looks of those areas with Helmsman Glossy aerosol spray.  Not quite as glossy as the rolled-on varnish, but still OK.  You can see one area to the left that looks a little duller, e.g.  Might look nice just to spray the whole camper, but I'm going to quit here.

I'm varnishing the doors and hatch cover on the back porch.  Conditions are about perfect--lows around 50, highs in upper 70s.  I varnish in the mornings while it is cool and finding it much easier to  maintain a wet edge.  This would not be a good idea with a first coat on bare wood, because out-gassing as the day warms would produce bubbles.  But over epoxy or previous coats of varnish--no problem.

Here are some of the electrical parts being installed--shown from inside the galley.  They will be covered up by the galley module.  On  the upper left is the stereo, battery monitor to the right of that.  Lower-left is a gang of six toggle switches, to it's right three dual USB ports (for charging) and one cigarette-lighter style 12 volt port, and in the lower right the master power switch.  The switch gang includes fuses and since everything either goes through that or has it's own fuse, I decided I did not need the fuse box. Not much room in there.

And here's a view of all those items seen from inside the cabin.

And so the wiring begins.  What a mess!  Lots of fun, though.  That really long cable bundled up in the lower right is the data feed to the battery monitor.  It is merely a standard UTP cable (similar to an Ethernet cable but with five pins on the plugs instead of six).  So, I ordered a crimper and a bunch of connectors so I can shorten the cable to about 8 inches.

 Here's the electrics pretty much all finished.  I have made a few minor improvements since I took the picture, but nothing that would show up on camera.

And here's a wider shot showing the speakers.  You can barely see a wire covered with white tape  on the upper right.  That is part of the radio antenna and I couldn't figure out any better way to deal with it.  It did not pick up very much if left down where it would be inside the galley module.  I like this antenna much better than the rod style that I would have to install on the outside of the shell. 

 And here is the galley  module temporarily installed.  As you can see all the electrics are hidden (except the radio antenna).  I still have to strap down the battery, then I can anchor the module in place.  The only battery boxes I can find are huge compared to the battery I have, so I'm just going to put the strap directly on the battery.  Since it is a sealed battery, I don't think there will be a problem.

The electrics as seen from above with the battery-access door open.

And a closer (although off-center) view of the battery and other electrics.  That bit of wire you see on the left will be used to attach the solar panel to the voltage regulator and battery.  I haven't installed it yet as I  need to find some kind of hull-through device for it.

Varnishing Continues

After six coats.  Looks really good but I can still find dull areas where the varnish is a little thin.  I'll do one more coat, but that's going to have to be enough.  May not quite look like a new car finish, but I think it will look great.  NOTE:  The color looks so different on shell from the below shots of the doors and hatch cover because of the different lighting (LED vs. sunlight).  I don't bother to color-correct all these photos.

In order to be able to keep working while all this varnishing of the shell is going on, I talked about varnishing the galley hatch cover and doors inside the house, but the odor would be much too strong.  I've decided to take care of this job on the back porch.  We've had a lot of rain and it is fairly humid right now and still getting pretty cool at night, so I decided to start with the insides of the items.  I discovered Minwax Helmsman (an excellent marine varnish) has an aerosol spray version, so I am using it for this job.  One advantage is that all three coats can be done within three hours.  Also, since we are having the rains, yes the humidity is a bit high, but there is no dust blowing around.

The doors and the galley hatch cover after one coat.  Not bad, but I wouldn't want to varnish the outside this way.  Hard to get the thickness even and besides it would be a really expensive way to go.

This is after three coats.  That's the trim ring for the ventilation hatch on the floor.  Some areas are a little glossier where I got the paint thicker (this may also be due to fairly high humidity--about 65%).  It all looks plenty good for the inside of the camper.  I plan to use this method for the galley module also, but I will do that in the garage under more controlled conditions.  I want it to look nice, but trying to get to all the little nooks and crannies with a roller and brush would be really difficult. 

Anyway, a major varnishing job is done!  Tomorrow I'll turn all these parts over and start on their outsides (unless it is still too humid).

Uuuuge Improvement!

Only one picture to show, but I wanted to spread the good word and reassure those who are getting ready to varnish.

It's much, much better.  Still not perfect, there are areas where the varnish is too thin and the dull, sanded coat under it shows through (could not get that to show up on camera).  That is not a problem though, because with Interlux Schooner varnish you do not have to sand between coats.  So, another coat or two should smooth everything out.  AND, the Interlux 216 Special Thinner really helped to smooth it out.  Just don't lay it on too thick so you don't get runs and sags.

So, lesson learned the hard way: Do it the way CLC tells you to do it.  You may have to practice on scrap wood to get the technique down, but it will be worth it.  As I said, the roll and tip method is the way CLC, Interlux, and Jamestown Distributors say to do it.  And now that I think about it, every picture I have seen of professionals painting boats or yachts, they are either using a roller or a brush.

BTW, I have some very nice badger hair brushes I could use for this, but a wide foam brush seems to work just as well.  My only problem now is I need to finish the shell while it is still cool enough to keep a wet edge going, then get it out of the way and varnish the hatch cover and doors while it is still cool.  If worse comes to worst I can always paint them inside the house.

One More Thing On Galley, then on to Finishing the Outside of the Shell

When I was putting the module in place, I began worrying about scratching the galley floor.  Then a brilliant (if I do say so) idea occurred to me:

I bought a 20" wide roll of thick, rubber-like shelf liner.  The liner is actually about 20 3/16" wide, which allowed me to put the edge under the galley module.  I added a second, narrower piece from there to the back and applied white duct tape at the seam.  I think it looks great and will be very durable.  One downside is it would be very difficult to add the barriers that hold the stove and cutting board in place, but I think it'll be easy enough to stow them somewhere and move them to the galley when needed.

On to varnishing the shell.  I decided to spray the varnish and here is the first coat:

Looks OK in this picture, but closer inspection shows a lot of "orange peel."  I am using a small HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) sprayer and Itnerlux 216 Special Thinner, which is supposed to be for brushing and spraying--but they may be expecting you to use a high pressure sprayer.

Earlex Spray Station 5500

I called the sprayer company and they suggested trying more thinner.  According to the book, it is supposed to take 130 seconds for the paint or varnish to flow through viscosity cup.  They said to try 100 - 110 seconds.  I got it to just under 100, but it was no better.  Even tried 80 with the same result.
Just not atomizing properly--which further leads me to believe a high-pressure sprayer is needed.

There is one ray of hope:

This is after the fourth coat.  Again it's hard to tell from the photo, but areas where the varnish is thicker are much smoother.  So I'm going to spray on at least one or two more coats, without sanding between coats.  It may be passable after that.  I'll need to keep track of how many coats so I can apply the same number on the doors and galley hatch.

I'm hoping this will provide decent results.  Later in the fall or spring, when the weather is cool again, I can sand the whole thing smooth and apply a couple coats with the roll and tip method.  One thing: all this varnish is going to give the shell a heck of a lot of UV protection!

NOTE:  After reading and re-reading articles from CLC, Interlux, and Jamestown Distributors I have decided to sand the entire shell smooth (there'll still be plenty of varnish on it) then add one or two more coats using the roll and tip method.  I didn't want to do this because I had been advised by a couple boatbuilders to spray it, and because I was not getting very good results on the inside bulkhead using a roller or brush.  I'm hoping the addition of the 216 Special Thinner will help it to go on more smoothly.  At any rate, NONE of the articles recommend spraying.  They all recommend slightly different roll and tip methods.  If it's still not perfect, well I guess I can live with it.  Or I might decide to paint it instead, there are a few flaws in the fiberglass that are visible through the varnish so far.  If I do decide to paint it, pretty sure it'll be the good old Interlux Hatteras White.

Finishing Galley Module Construction, Painting Cabin Floor

 Several of the parts of the galley module laid out for epoxy-coats.  I was able to get a little over half the parts onto the sawhorses I arranged in the living room--a little too cold in the garage at night.

 All the parts have received three coats of epoxy and been sanded smooth.  Now construction begins.  The center section, which includes the battery compartment, clamped and tacked with fast-setting glue "dots."  There will be a small spice shelf in front of the battery compartment.

 Here, you can see that the section has been permanently glued together with fillets of epoxy thickened with a colloidal silica product called "Cell-O-Fill."

 Next, the front section is placed face-down, and the center section placed on top and glued.

 The top shelf is slotted into place and tacked with fast-setting glue.

 I ran out of the fast-setting glue and accelerant CLC supplied early on.  I bought these products from "Satellite City."  They seem to work a bit better.

 The remainder of the panels, slotted in place and glued.

 While the epoxy was setting I took time to paint the floor of the cabin.  It is the same "Flag Blue" I used on the bottom.

 The front transverse panel (near the bottom of the picture) has been glued in place.

 NOTE TO BUILDERS: There is a lot of slop in the mortises for the panel tabs.  I had to open the slot in the transverse panel up (opened it too much) to allow the panel to fit.  It would be a good idea to temporarily put both front and back transverse panels in place when you are gluing in the vertical panels, to be sure you'll be able to fit the transverse panel in.

 Applying final coat of epoxy to the entire structure.  This will be lightly sanded later and three coats of varnish applied.

The galley module, put temporarily in place to get an idea of it's placement and final appearance. 

Starting Work on the Galley

I didn't care much for the way the gray bilge paint looked inside the galley, so decided to let it become a primer and paint over it with Interlux Brightside Hatteras White, a very fine and durable paint.  This is the second coat.  I'll add one or two more for sure. 

One thing I learned (actually re-learned) this time around is not to use a brush to tip off the bubbles left by a foam roller.  Instead, after painting three or four square feet, go back over that area several times with the roller, using extremely light pressure.  On the horizontal surface, just the weight of the roller itself is sufficient.  This works very well.  It helps that the weather is still cool so the paint doesn't dry too soon, making it easier to keep a wet edge going.  I hope I will be able to do all the roller and brush jobs before it starts to heat up.  I plan to spray the outside of the shell, but still, cooler weather will help for that also.

This is the kit for the galley "module."  I have temporarily put it partially together so I will have a better understanding how it's all going to work. The module will include shelves for food, and also a place for the battery and all the electrical components, such as charger and bus bars, etc.  I will be installing a stereo receiver and lights inside the cabin. 

General Update

It's been quite a while since I updated this blog.  Been busy with other things and also frustrated with constantly sanding through to bare wood--then having to apply new epoxy, wait for it to cure, and try sanding again.  Seems to happen even whether machine or hand sanding and using 220 or even 320 paper.  I did  not have this problem on the first two boats I built and only three or four small "incidents" on the third.  Is there something different about this project, or am I just losing my touch?  Any other builders having this problem?  Let me know.

This photo was shot Feb 18, 2017, showing my epoxy work on the inside of the galley.  As you can see there are some flaws in the plywood (came that way) so I've decided to paint the interior with light gray bilge paint--a very sturdy product.  The galley module sides will be off-white and the front will be bright-finished.  The front is of a different, beautiful plywood (sappele?) which is why I'll varnish instead of paint it.  That combination should brighten it up in there quite a bit.  I will probably also paint the cabin floor with the gray bilge paint.

 2/18/17: Here's a shot of the port-side eyebrow pretty much finished. 

 Also 2/18/17: I've now built a plastic sheeting "tent" over the entire project, because I have small repair patches of epoxy to cure at several widely-separated areas.  (Don't want to heat the entire garage.)

3/7/17:  CLC has sent me a small block of mahogany they are now including with all the kits.  The block will provide a standoff for the galley hatch's hasp catch.  In the original design, the hasp was bent to reach the catch, but this was causing breakage problems for some builders.  Though it is not called for, I plan to add a small fillet around the block, just to make sure it is strong enough  (impossible to tell whether there may be areas underneath the block that did not come into contact with the shell during gluing).

That brings things up to date.  Not much has been happening, but I have to "get with it," because I am hoping to take the camper to a sailing event at Lake Texoma April 29.